So I've just returned from traveling around two of the Zapatista zones that are around San Cristobal. The coffee cooperative that brought me here was made up of farmers in the Caracol of Oventik (about an hour outside San Cristobal).
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| “You are in Zapatista rebel territory, here, the people command and the government obeys.” |
...that's right...it
was made up of farmers from the area, the farmers still exist, but the cooperative does not. In the past 10 days I have heard differing accounts as to why, but it seems that, at least, people agree that the federal government shut them down for not paying taxes. Academics in the area have also added that there was some internal strife related to information sharing. I must say, it seems rather
my lot to set out to study businesses that (suddenly) no longer exist.
So, like many before me I went through the process of being cleared by the junta at Oventik to enter the zone, have an audience with the junta and to make appointments to speak with their agro-ecology promoters.
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| Zapata's watching you. |
There are many pictures of my time in Oventik, I spent 4 days and 3 nights within the government center (the center for good government) and also traveled and stayed a few nights in two additional communities one within a municipality within the caracol of Oventik and one within the caracol of Morelia. Without going into too much detail, I will explain that the structure of the good government is multi-scalar and to complicate an already difficult (for me) to understand system, there are multiple names for things. For example, I went to visit the municipality of Magdalena, which is also called Aldama. The name Aldama is the name used by non-affiliated people living there, while Magdalena is used by those aligned with the movement.
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| Corn People |
I took many photos, but as things go, there are far fewer than I would liked to have taken. It is inappropriate and potentially dangerous to take a photo that has people (without masks), homes or other identifying features in it. All Zapatistas have given up their names and faces to be named and seen. That said, there is not one surface that is not in some way telling the story of their struggle. So, like many of the curious parties who show up at the gates of Oventik, hand over their passports and eventually gain entry to marvel at the wonder of autonomous government...I took pictures of the murals. I also finally got the guts to take the photo-op with the junta, if you've ever looked up Oventik you'll see something similar...
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| Caracol health clinic |
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| The office of the Junta - I spent a lot of time on that bench... |
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| Magdalena Municipal Office |
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| The Auditorium |
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| Las Mujeres |
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| Greens garden at the secondary school |
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| Kittens in Resistance (the tiniest ones I've ever seen) |
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| The monster of capitalism |
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| This is where I stayed |
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| After the second meeting with the Junta I asked for a photo |
I like the story that goes with these photos...in the caracol of Morelia there is a municipality that is on a former hacienda. The rancher who used to hold this land had exploited the indigenous population for the duration of his residence. On the day of the uprising, the ejido workers knocked on the door of his ranch house and told him to leave and never come back.
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| Ejido San Gregorio |
The road they were forced to build out of rock, by hand is overgrown with grass, the airfield that they had leveled the ground to accommodate the ranchers plane is now a thriving community-worked cornfield (the dismantled airplane is a chicken coop), the ranch house, over the years has fallen into disrepair, an unsightly memory of their subjugation...but it is now under repair to house the growing secondary school population.
It is an amazing community and a gorgeous study site.
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| Plane turned chicken coop |
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| The staple of autonomy |
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| Beans climbing the corn (in the milpa) |
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| Beans hanging out to dry |
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| The abandoned church |
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| The revitalized ranch house |
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| corn plots in the valley |
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| the water supply |
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| They can cut our branches and trunks but they cannot pull out our roots (I think) |
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| thorny branches (previously used for limiting the movement of cows) |
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| abandoned tractor |
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| looking up from the floor of the milpa |
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| Me in the milpa |
For the moment I'm back in the city trying to get my bearings, there is another coffee cooperative that is Zapatista aligned that I learned about while I was in Morelia. I've had an additional meeting with the junta and with the promoters of agroecology in Oventik to get their thoughts on fair trade, coffee growing and food consumption. It's a lot to take in and It's no surprise to find that I have more information than I know what to do with and a lot of things to think through.
I've had a couple meetings in town since I've been back, which have been extraordinarily productive and I'm heading back out for another round of meetings in Oventik over the weekend.
Research is a fucking roller-coaster, but for now I've still got my hands in the air.